Indian Classical Concert
DV Paluskar Hall
Sharda Sangeet Vidyalaya
Kala Nagar, Bandra (E)
We saw an advertisement of this program in The Times of India. DJKung was hankering for traditional live music, so this looked like a good bet. We took a cab to Bandra, a suburban enclave about an thirty minutes from Colaba and got dropped off at a school/community center. This was deeeep, and we were amply rewarded.
This program was in three parts. The first part consisted of tabla drum performance with traditional song. It reminded us a lot of Middle Eastern prayer chants, but the notes were more sustained and meditative.
The crowd really liked the latter performance by this trio of young musicians playing fusion music, where they tried to meld musical traditions with electronic music/Western drums.
Friday, May 8, 2009
South India: Mumbai: Indigo Deli
Indigo Deli
Colaba, Mumbai
Bombay belly finally struck Superfatty!!! For our foray to Indigo Deli, DJKung had a solo flight with trying the food. Fellow travellers we've met at Green Palms recommended the cheesesteak here for those who are undergoing serious beef withdrawal.
Indigo Deli feels a tad like the French delicatessens that offer cheeses, sausages, jellies, etc. It felt like a motherlode for all the expats in Mumbai because there were a lot of foreigners. Probably everyone here was jonesing for some red meat like DJKung.
Cheesesteak. DJKung could not identify the type of cheese used. He liked how the bread was toasted and the way the beef was prepared, with a masala spice thing goin' on.
ZIngy mustard and ketchup.
THis was all Superfatty could have--- a restorative cuppa (yes, I was feeling sorry for myself; the menu looked quite tempting).
Colaba, Mumbai
Bombay belly finally struck Superfatty!!! For our foray to Indigo Deli, DJKung had a solo flight with trying the food. Fellow travellers we've met at Green Palms recommended the cheesesteak here for those who are undergoing serious beef withdrawal.
Indigo Deli feels a tad like the French delicatessens that offer cheeses, sausages, jellies, etc. It felt like a motherlode for all the expats in Mumbai because there were a lot of foreigners. Probably everyone here was jonesing for some red meat like DJKung.
Cheesesteak. DJKung could not identify the type of cheese used. He liked how the bread was toasted and the way the beef was prepared, with a masala spice thing goin' on.
ZIngy mustard and ketchup.
THis was all Superfatty could have--- a restorative cuppa (yes, I was feeling sorry for myself; the menu looked quite tempting).
South India: Mumbai: Royal China
Royal China
Mumbai
After a wonderful experience at Trishna, we wanted to try out a "great" Chinese restaurant specializing in seafood. I also had a serious craving for dimsum. Time Out Mumbai recommended this restaurant, and we were game to try their menu.
Fried seaweed. I am not sure what the point of this was--- it tasted like the dried green seaweed snack that comes lightly salted and sugared. Frying does make it somewhat crunchy, but it also absorbed a lot of oil. It wasn't much of an appetizer, but rather, stunted our tastebuds.
Fried calamari. These were good---tender on the inside and tasted like squid.
Scallop dumplings. These were ok. We did note that Royal China, though specializing in dimsum, does not have the little carts that visit each table. Instead, you order a la carte from their dimsum menu.
Fried grouper in soya-chili-ginger sauce. Though impressive in size, it was not superfresh.
Mumbai
After a wonderful experience at Trishna, we wanted to try out a "great" Chinese restaurant specializing in seafood. I also had a serious craving for dimsum. Time Out Mumbai recommended this restaurant, and we were game to try their menu.
Fried seaweed. I am not sure what the point of this was--- it tasted like the dried green seaweed snack that comes lightly salted and sugared. Frying does make it somewhat crunchy, but it also absorbed a lot of oil. It wasn't much of an appetizer, but rather, stunted our tastebuds. 
Fried calamari. These were good---tender on the inside and tasted like squid.
Scallop dumplings. These were ok. We did note that Royal China, though specializing in dimsum, does not have the little carts that visit each table. Instead, you order a la carte from their dimsum menu.Shrimp dumplings. These were a disappointment, considering that we've had a lot of fresh prawns throughout the trip. These dumplings were rather bland and dry.
Fried grouper in soya-chili-ginger sauce. Though impressive in size, it was not superfresh.So in conclusion, Royal China did not satisfy our yen for seafood and dimsum that day. We also felt that it was too pish-posh for us, and definitely did not give too much bang for the rupee.
South India: Mumbai: Elephanta Island
Elephanta Island
(accessible by ferry from Gateway of India)
Mumbai
After a hard night of partying, we woke up early, breakfasted, and went to get tickets for the 9am ferry to Elephanta Island. Elephanta has about five caves open to the public with Hindu carvings dating back to 450 to 750 AD.
DJKung was very excited to see more ruins. The trip by ferry took roughly an hour each way.
Gateway of India. This structure was created to welcome King George the fifth in 1911. It is a popular tourist spot for locals and foreigners alike, and gets crowded especially at sunset. On its left one side of the Taj Hotel. More recently, this area is known as the ground zero for the 11/7 terrorist attacks.
Ferry boats.
DJKung dozing off during the ferry ride.
I love how dynamic and three-dimensional this sculpture of Shiva the Destroyer is. You can almost feel the wrath burning out from the eyes and mouth! The posture is also very aggressive--- you can see the remaining right arm holding a sword, and the two left hands hold a bell and another object I cannot identify.
These are some sculptures guarding the stupa inside. You need to take your shoes off before entering.
Three-faced Shiva. This sculpture is very breathtaking in its size and detail. From this piocture, you can make out the destroyer face on the left. The cave where it lies, Cave 1, is a massive temple that contained the stupa, several larger-than-life images of Shiva and fat pillars. Unfortunately, they are not as well-preserved as those in the Kalehri caves. The restoration work done is also very noticeable and kinda detracts from the overall flow of the place.
(accessible by ferry from Gateway of India)
Mumbai
After a hard night of partying, we woke up early, breakfasted, and went to get tickets for the 9am ferry to Elephanta Island. Elephanta has about five caves open to the public with Hindu carvings dating back to 450 to 750 AD.
DJKung was very excited to see more ruins. The trip by ferry took roughly an hour each way.
Gateway of India. This structure was created to welcome King George the fifth in 1911. It is a popular tourist spot for locals and foreigners alike, and gets crowded especially at sunset. On its left one side of the Taj Hotel. More recently, this area is known as the ground zero for the 11/7 terrorist attacks.
Ferry boats.
DJKung dozing off during the ferry ride. Once you get to the island, there is a kiddie train that takes you from the piers to the island (~5 minute walk). The train is good to take on an especially scorching day. The stairway up to the caves takes about a fifteen to thirty-minute hike, but at least it is shaded by awnings set up by the souvenir stalls all along the way.
I love how dynamic and three-dimensional this sculpture of Shiva the Destroyer is. You can almost feel the wrath burning out from the eyes and mouth! The posture is also very aggressive--- you can see the remaining right arm holding a sword, and the two left hands hold a bell and another object I cannot identify.
These are some sculptures guarding the stupa inside. You need to take your shoes off before entering.
Three-faced Shiva. This sculpture is very breathtaking in its size and detail. From this piocture, you can make out the destroyer face on the left. The cave where it lies, Cave 1, is a massive temple that contained the stupa, several larger-than-life images of Shiva and fat pillars. Unfortunately, they are not as well-preserved as those in the Kalehri caves. The restoration work done is also very noticeable and kinda detracts from the overall flow of the place.
South India: Mumbai: Henry Tham's
Henry Tham's
Kalagodha, Mumbai
On one of our nights in Mumbai, we were able to check out the bar scene. The headliner that evening was Talvin Singh, a DJ/musician who has some reknown as a contributor to the Cafe Del Mar series.
Henry Tham's is a restaurant during the day. Some nights, they are buzzing with loads of pretty young kids. We got in early and watched the bartenders do their thing.
This was the opening DJ that night. He played mostly house.
Talvin Singh finally came on about 11 or 12pm and started rockin' the drum n bass.
Kalagodha, Mumbai
On one of our nights in Mumbai, we were able to check out the bar scene. The headliner that evening was Talvin Singh, a DJ/musician who has some reknown as a contributor to the Cafe Del Mar series.
Henry Tham's is a restaurant during the day. Some nights, they are buzzing with loads of pretty young kids. We got in early and watched the bartenders do their thing.
This was the opening DJ that night. He played mostly house.
Talvin Singh finally came on about 11 or 12pm and started rockin' the drum n bass.South India: Mumbai: Trishna
Trishna
7R Walk Lane
Kalaghoda, Mumbai, Mumbai City,
Maharashtra 4000023, India
+91 22 22703214
We've heard nothing but raves about Trishna from cab drivers, concierges and people-in-the -know in Mumbai. Trishna's reputation for the freshest seafood around is well-deserved. Reservations are essential. If you're feeling pretty flush, ask to see their specials for the evening. While we were there, the waiters would parade around giant crabs and lobsters for the customers' approval.
We were not too hungry that night and limited our orders to a couple of dishes.
Rajastani fish (dry roasted). We decided on pomfret, and the fillets were just huge. The veggie fried rice was ok.
Chicken chili. DJKung liked this too.
Garnishes: fresh red onions, sliced limes and green sauce. These went perfectly with the fish.
This is another view of the Rajastani fish. The outside was crispy and perfectly seasoned. The flesh tasted clean, sweet and superfresh. The inside was juicy. Trishna's kitchen definitely has a deft touch with the seafood.
Tiger beer. Tiger beer was our brew of choice in Mumbai. This lager is smooth, very easy to drink and goes well with spicy Asian food.
It was at Trishna that we had our first taste of kulfi. This is the local ice cream. It has the consistency of ice milk and has a taste very similar to dulce de leche.
7R Walk Lane
Kalaghoda, Mumbai, Mumbai City,
Maharashtra 4000023, India
+91 22 22703214
We've heard nothing but raves about Trishna from cab drivers, concierges and people-in-the -know in Mumbai. Trishna's reputation for the freshest seafood around is well-deserved. Reservations are essential. If you're feeling pretty flush, ask to see their specials for the evening. While we were there, the waiters would parade around giant crabs and lobsters for the customers' approval.
We were not too hungry that night and limited our orders to a couple of dishes.
Rajastani fish (dry roasted). We decided on pomfret, and the fillets were just huge. The veggie fried rice was ok. 
Chicken chili. DJKung liked this too.
Garnishes: fresh red onions, sliced limes and green sauce. These went perfectly with the fish.
This is another view of the Rajastani fish. The outside was crispy and perfectly seasoned. The flesh tasted clean, sweet and superfresh. The inside was juicy. Trishna's kitchen definitely has a deft touch with the seafood.
Tiger beer. Tiger beer was our brew of choice in Mumbai. This lager is smooth, very easy to drink and goes well with spicy Asian food.
It was at Trishna that we had our first taste of kulfi. This is the local ice cream. It has the consistency of ice milk and has a taste very similar to dulce de leche.We wanted to return to this restaurant for seconds and were truly sorry that we missed out on our last night. Trishna is definitely on our list next time we go back!
South India: Mumbai: Hotel Diplomat/ Cafe Indus
Hotel Diplomat/ Cafe Indus
Colaba, Mumbai
Hotel Diplomat is a no-frills tourist hotel smack-dab in Colaba, where most of the main tourist attractions in Mumbai are. We were famished after checking in, and decided to try their in-house restaurant, Cafe Indus. Cafe Indus looks more like a lounge than a restaurant, so we did not have very high hopes for the food. But, like most of the restaurants we have tried on this trip, the food was pretty good.
Egg biryani. The rice was fluffy and fragrant.
Chicken tikka masala. The tomato sauce was very hearty and the chicken was tender and juicy. It reminded me a lot of mechado. Of course, we also had fresh chapati.
No meal is complete without the garnishes... onion and tomato salad, some chutney, and green sauce.
A buffet breakfast was included with our stay at Hotel Diplomat, so we always had a hearty Western breakfast in the morning. You get eggs (any style), toast, baked beans and fruit.
Colaba, Mumbai
Hotel Diplomat is a no-frills tourist hotel smack-dab in Colaba, where most of the main tourist attractions in Mumbai are. We were famished after checking in, and decided to try their in-house restaurant, Cafe Indus. Cafe Indus looks more like a lounge than a restaurant, so we did not have very high hopes for the food. But, like most of the restaurants we have tried on this trip, the food was pretty good.
Egg biryani. The rice was fluffy and fragrant. 
Chicken tikka masala. The tomato sauce was very hearty and the chicken was tender and juicy. It reminded me a lot of mechado. Of course, we also had fresh chapati.
No meal is complete without the garnishes... onion and tomato salad, some chutney, and green sauce.
A buffet breakfast was included with our stay at Hotel Diplomat, so we always had a hearty Western breakfast in the morning. You get eggs (any style), toast, baked beans and fruit.Thursday, May 7, 2009
South India: Mumbai: Royal Palms Hotel/ Fountain Cafe
Royal Palms Hotel/Fountain Cafe
North Mumbai
By this point in the trip, we were seriously craving junk food, so we asked our taxi driver, Nazir, for suggestions. He took us to DMart, a suburban grocery store. We bought some junk food to stock up.
This was our haul. From left: Cheeselings (cheese crackers), two types of Knorr instant ramen (Masala Yo was awesome and the Green Curry flavor was so-so). Childa's tomato balls (tasted like sweet tomato ketchup) and Saffola Zest. We scarfed these goodies down pretty quickly.
Superfatty's salad plate. From top, clockwise: red leaf salad (a wee wilty), orange terrine, tomato, pasta, corn salad. This was overall a humdrum selection, so I proceeded to the soup.
Soup, Chinese style.
This was DJKung's plate. I think that item on the left is chicken.
Pasta with red sauce and tiny piece of fish. The sauce had a funky masala blend to it---not your typical Arrabiata.
From top, clockwise: salad with hardboiled eggs, fresh naan, fried baby corn (yum), paneer tikka masala (yum).
Yellow lentil soup.
Two types of cheesecake.
More sweets.
North Mumbai
By this point in the trip, we were seriously craving junk food, so we asked our taxi driver, Nazir, for suggestions. He took us to DMart, a suburban grocery store. We bought some junk food to stock up.
This was our haul. From left: Cheeselings (cheese crackers), two types of Knorr instant ramen (Masala Yo was awesome and the Green Curry flavor was so-so). Childa's tomato balls (tasted like sweet tomato ketchup) and Saffola Zest. We scarfed these goodies down pretty quickly.What to say about our hotel, Royal Palms. The location is pretty remote, about two hours away from Colaba with all the traffic. It sits smack in Aarey Milk Colony, which is a verdant, mountainous area with milk farms aplenty (though it was not stinky at all). The hotel had a nice pool overlooking the mountainside, although the view wasn't terribly impressive. DJKung and I agreed that staying in a more central location would be better.
We were pleasantly surprised by the fare at Fountain Cafe, their in-house restaurant. We opted for their buffet, which at the expensive end of the places we've tried in Mumbai. Although the restaurant was not bustling, the food was rather good. The misses were mostly the Western items, like the fresh salads and breadsticks. The Indian dishes were yummy.
The following pictures are a refresher on Superfatty's Super Buffet Tips. The key to accommodating the breadth and depth of any buffet is to take small portions on your first few forays.
Superfatty's salad plate. From top, clockwise: red leaf salad (a wee wilty), orange terrine, tomato, pasta, corn salad. This was overall a humdrum selection, so I proceeded to the soup.
Soup, Chinese style.
This was DJKung's plate. I think that item on the left is chicken.
Pasta with red sauce and tiny piece of fish. The sauce had a funky masala blend to it---not your typical Arrabiata.
From top, clockwise: salad with hardboiled eggs, fresh naan, fried baby corn (yum), paneer tikka masala (yum).
Yellow lentil soup.
Two types of cheesecake.
More sweets.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
South India: Mumbai: Kahleri Caves
Kahleri Caves
Sanjay Gandhi National Park
Mumbai
There must have been more than a hundred caves on site, but the guide only led us to a handful. He explained that most of the caves are spare and unadorned, and had likely served as living quarters. The fancier caves were used for worship.
Picture of UFC with Nazir, our taxi driver and all-around reference for all things Mumbai. Behind us is a stupa, or sacred Buddhist monument. This cave was long and rectangular, and had perfect acoustics when the guide chanted his prayer.
By the entrance of this cave, there were two Buddhas on either side. One of the Buddhas was smiling, and the other was not.
Pretty dancing girls. I love how sensual and alive they look. The quality of the sculptures at the caves was very impressive, considering the length of time that has passed.
Ahead were some generic caves, akin to little holes in the wall (literally!).
This is my favorite cave of all. I think it is the cave of the one thousand and one Buddhas. All four sides of the room are covered with scenes.
Following our tour of the caves, we decided to spring for the lion and tiger safari. After paying the fee (~ Rp30), we hopped on the Safari Queen. The bus felt very secure, with thick glass and metal bars. The safari part itself was also double-fenced. All the passengers (mostly schoolkids) expected some real tiger action... but with the heat of the day, all the tigers were sleepin' away.
Yellow tiger (look closely). We also saw a white tiger and some cubs.
The Safari Queen
Both the Kahleri Caves and the Safari were a hit! DJKung and I like this better than Elephanta, which was very touristy.
Sanjay Gandhi National Park
Mumbai
One good thing about the hotel we initially picked was that it was minutes away from Sanjay Gandhi National Park, where the Kahleri caves are located. The Kahleri caves are a constellation of caves used by Buddhist monks between the 2d and 9th centuries as temples and living quarters.
We were able to rent out a taxi to get to the park, and had to hike uphill about thirty minutes to get to the caves. The terrain was rather dry and dusty, and even the greenery looked very faded (it was still the dry season in Mumbai then).
Of course we got the usual touts who demanded about Rp 800 to give us a guided tour. Our concierge at the airport had warned us that we should be able to haggle it down to Rp300, but no luck that day. Fortunately, there was an official guide at the entrance to the caves, who charged us Rp 250.
There must have been more than a hundred caves on site, but the guide only led us to a handful. He explained that most of the caves are spare and unadorned, and had likely served as living quarters. The fancier caves were used for worship.
Picture of UFC with Nazir, our taxi driver and all-around reference for all things Mumbai. Behind us is a stupa, or sacred Buddhist monument. This cave was long and rectangular, and had perfect acoustics when the guide chanted his prayer.
By the entrance of this cave, there were two Buddhas on either side. One of the Buddhas was smiling, and the other was not.
Pretty dancing girls. I love how sensual and alive they look. The quality of the sculptures at the caves was very impressive, considering the length of time that has passed.
Ahead were some generic caves, akin to little holes in the wall (literally!).
This is my favorite cave of all. I think it is the cave of the one thousand and one Buddhas. All four sides of the room are covered with scenes.
Following our tour of the caves, we decided to spring for the lion and tiger safari. After paying the fee (~ Rp30), we hopped on the Safari Queen. The bus felt very secure, with thick glass and metal bars. The safari part itself was also double-fenced. All the passengers (mostly schoolkids) expected some real tiger action... but with the heat of the day, all the tigers were sleepin' away.
Yellow tiger (look closely). We also saw a white tiger and some cubs.
The Safari Queen
Both the Kahleri Caves and the Safari were a hit! DJKung and I like this better than Elephanta, which was very touristy.
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